Sewing Lessons - let's make a skirt a day!

A Skirt A Day

If you have mastered sewing straight seams, being sure to keep a 1.5cm seam allowance, try making a different skirt a day.
Start with a simple gathered skirt, then work your way up to a pleated skirt with a waistband, zipper and button closure.








Monday         Make a gathered skirt with an elastic waist in a casing
Tuesday        Make a gathered skirt with overlay and an elastic waist
Wednesday  Make a gathered skirt with a waistband and zipper
Thursday       Make a gathered skirt with wide elastic as a waistband
Friday            Make a pleated skirt with a waistband, zipper and button closure

A Skirt A Day Details

Monday 9am – 12pm

Make a gathered skirt with an elastic waist in a casing!


So you know how much fabric you will need, you’ll first have to take some measurements:
- Waist measurement
- Hip measurement (at widest point – about 10cm below your waist)
- Skirt length from your waist down to where you want the skirt to finish

Materials:
1. 1 cm wide non-roll elastic (this has vertical ridges on it)
     = waist measurement
2. skirt fabric
    = length of skirt + 6cm if 1½ x hip measurement is less than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
       OR
    = 2 x length of skirt + 12cm if 1½ x hip measurement is greater than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
3. matching thread



Tuesday 9am – 12pm

Make a gathered skirt with overlay and an elastic waist!



So you know how much fabric you will need, you’ll first have to take some measurements:
- Waist measurement
- Hip measurement (at widest point – about 10cm below your waist)
- Skirt length from your waist down to where you want the skirt to finish

Materials:
1. 1 cm wide non-roll elastic (this has vertical ridges on it)
     = waist measurement
2. skirt fabric
    = length of skirt + 6cm if 1½ x hip measurement is less than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
       OR
    = 2 x length of skirt + 12cm if 1½ x hip measurement is greater than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
3. overskirt fabric
     = length of skirt if 2 x hip measurement is less than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm) 
        OR
     = 2 x length of skirt if 2 x hip measurement is greater than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
4. matching thread



Wednesday 9am -12pm

Make a gathered skirt with a waistband and zipper!

Practice inserting a lapped zipper in fabric samples before sewing this skirt.
Lapped zippers are the easiest zippers to sew.

So you know how much fabric you will need, you’ll first have to take some measurements:
- Hip measurement (at widest point – about 10cm below your waist)
- Skirt length from your waist down to where you want the skirt to finish

Materials:
1. skirt fabric
    = length of skirt + 16cm if 1½ x hip measurement is less than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
       OR
    = 2 x length of skirt + 22cm if 1½ x hip measurement is greater than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)

2. matching zipper 20cm – 25cm long
3. matching thread

Thursday 9am -12

Make a gathered skirt with wide elastic as a waistband!

This skirt is a little bit trickier than the earlier skirts, as you will be stretching the elastic as you sew on the skirt, so keeping the 1.5cm seam allowance as you sew your seams is more difficult.

So you know how much fabric you will need, you’ll first have to take some measurements:- Waist measurement
- Hip measurement (at widest point – about 10cm below your waist)
- Skirt length from your waist down to where you want the skirt to finish

Materials:1. 3cm-5cm cm wide flat elastic 
     = waist measurement
2. skirt fabric
    = length of skirt + 4cm if 1½ x hip measurement is less than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
       OR
    = 2 x length of skirt + 8cm if 1½ x hip measurement is greater than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
3. matching thread


Friday 9am – 12 Make a pleated skirt with a waistband, zipper and button closure !
As well as having a lapped zipper, you will need to be able to sew a button hole.
Choose a button that fits into your automatic buttonhole foot, to make things easier.
The inside of the waistband will be finished by stitching in the ditch.

So you know how much fabric you will need, you’ll first have to take some measurements:
- Hip measurement (at widest point – about 10cm below your waist)
- Skirt length from your waist down to where you want the skirt to finish

Materials:
1. skirt fabric
     = length of skirt + 15cm if 2 x hip measurement is less than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm) 
        OR
     = 2 x length of skirt + 30cm if 2 x hip measurement is greater than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
2. 15cm – 20cm long zipper
3. matching button 1.5 – 2.5cm diameter
4. matching thread

Email getsetsew@gmail.com to book any or all of these sewing classes, which are held in Perth, Western Australia.

Sewing class: Skirt making sewing lessons – 3 skirts in 3 hours

Sewing class: Skirt making sewing lessons – 3 skirts in 3 hours 

Classes for people who can sew with a little confidence.

Learn how to make quick and simple girls' skirts with elasticized waists.

You will learn to sew:
* a gathered skirt with elastic casing at the waist
* a gathered skirt with wide elastic as a waistband
* a circle skirt with elasticized waist

Materials needed to make the skirts:

First, you will need to get your measurements:
- Waist measurement
- Hip measurement (at widest point – about 20cm below waist)
- Skirt length

Materials:
* gathered skirt with elastic casing at the waist
1. 1cm wide non-roll elastic (this has vertical ridges on it)
      = waist measurement
 2. skirt fabric
      = length of skirt + 6cm if 1 1/2 x hip measurement is less than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
       OR
     = 2 x length of skirt + 12cm if 1 1/2 x hip measurement is greater than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
3. matching thread


* gathered skirt with wide elastic as a waistband
1. 3cm – 5cm wide elastic
    = waist measurement + 3cm
2. skirt fabric
     = length of skirt + 4cm if 1 1/2 x hip measurement is less than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
OR
    = 2 x length of skirt + 8cm if 1 1/2 x hip measurement is greater than width of fabric (90cm or 115cm)
3. matching thread

* circle skirt with elasticized waist
1. 3cm – 5cm wide elastic
    = waist measurement + 3cm
2. skirt fabric
    = length of skirt + 20cm if sewing for a child
       OR
    = length of skirt + 10cm + radius – see calculation in example
3. matching thread


Equipment:

For you sewing lesson, you will also need to bring along the following equipment:
* sewing machine (and instruction book)
* spare sewing machine needles (in case one bends or breaks)
* fabric cutting scissors
* thread cutting scissors
* sewing gauge
* pins
* safety pin

Sewing machine features to look for

If you are new to sewing, and are wondering which sewing machine you should invest in as your first machine, you cannot go past the Bernina 1008.

We had these sewing machines to use at Technical College years ago, and Bernina are still making this model as it is so popular!.

We sewed with them day-in, day-out.

We sewed everything from lingerie and bathers to tailored suits, jeans and bridal gowns complete with veils.

The 1008 is a mechanical machine (no bells or whistles like the electronic or computerized sewing machines), extremely reliable and simple to use in terms of threading, control placement, bobbin winding, sewing in reverse, maintenance, size and weight. 

This model also has a good selection of decorative stitches which most sewers would use.

If you are seeking a fancier sewing machine, there are some features to consider.

 My list of essential sewing machine features (and why)

Needle can be stopped in down position	Needle can be stopped in down position Being able to finish a stitch with the needle down skewers the fabric in place each time you pause in your sewing (no slipping), or if you want to lift the presser foot to adjust the fabric.
Knee operated presser foot lifter	Knee operated presser foot lifter A knee lift allows you to keep both hands on the fabric to adjust its position when sewing fiddly bits.
5 needle positions	5 needle positions 5 needle positions are excellent for when sewing double-stitched seams – you can sew along your first row of stitching with the needle just off centre to sew a perfect parallel line.  Left, right and centre are not enough.
Bobbin cases with large holes or slots	Bobbin cases with large holes or slots It is easy to start winding thread onto a bobbin if you can poke the end up through a hole in the bobbin and hold it as the bobbin starts to spin. Some bobbins have only one small hole close to the centre – no use if you are adding thread to a bobbin that already has some thread wound onto it.
Reverse button close to needle and presser foot	Reverse button close to needle and presser foot Having the reverse button close to where your hands are when sewing makes it easier to keep everything in place. Some machines have the reverse button over on the main body of the machine, so you have to take your hand away from your work. Having a reverse button just near the presser foot means you can be pressing this in with one finger whilst using the others to hold the fabric in position. I have circled the reverse button on this machine so you can see how well it is located.
Needle threader	Needle threader  Because my eye sight isn’t as keen as it once was, anything that enables quick needle threading gets a star in my book!
Automatic button holes	Automatic button holes  Sew the first side of a buttonhole, and the machine copies this for all of the others, making a perfect set of button holes!
Light does not cast shadows	Light does not cast shadows On some machines, the gadgetry around the presser foot and needle is placed so that it tends to cast shadows over the presser foot, right where you sew.  Or the globe is positioned so that your hand guiding the fabric to the foot creates a shadow.  Something else to watch out for is that where you hold your hand to control the fabric can be right where the globe pokes out, so you burn your right hand all of the time.
Wide plate that can be added to the arm	Wide plate that can be added to the arm Having a U shaped plate that can be clipped on to widen the sewing arm (the part where you place your fabric as you sew) can make a world of difference to being able to manage your fabric as you sew.
Bobbin can be filled without unthreading needle	Bobbin can be filled without unthreading needle Having two spool holders and a separate winder for the bobbin thread is a blessing when you are all threaded up.  I usually have two spools of thread, so can fill the bobbin using the other spool holder and bobbin thread winder.
Sewing machine plate with clear markings	Sewing machine plate with clear markings You need to be able to clearly see lines on the sewing machine plate. These are used to be able to determine your seam allowance and sewing line as you hold the fabric when sewing.

Sew4Home has an excellent article on Top ten advanced machine features which I also, for the most part, agree with.

Sew, Mama, Sew has an exhaustive list of sewing machine brands and models, each with a review. 

Take a look, and you will see why selecting a sewing machine is something each person has to do for themselves.

(I have used a friend’s machine, and the thread take-up arm shot up so high as I sewed that it caught my fringe and pulled out single hairs each time I drew close to work on a fiddly bit!)

You really need to spend a good amount of time to go to a sewing machine shop, sit down at all types of machines and sew all types of stitches on different weight fabrics (take some with you), until you find one that suits you best.


If you have the space, a Horn Sewing Cabinet is perfect for storing your sewing machine and accompanying equipment.

What a wonderful idea – everything at your fingertips when you’re sewing, then you can pack it all neatly away when you’re finished, safe from inquisitive children and their fingertips! 
Select a model that allows for a sewing machine and overlocker (a future purchase).